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Voices Ring Through Malawian Hills


By Ian Wright - Posted on 23 May 2009

I’m sitting in an empty district office on a Friday afternoon. Right outside my window, the whole town has come together to march, dance and sing; all of Machinga has essentially been paused while its people share some time together. Believe me when I say that their voices sound incredible, as they bust out one unique song after another, complete with acapella sections. How can they all know so many words!? One fellow tells me it is their way of thanking the recently elected MP, in hopes that she will represent all of their voices in the coming five year term.

Yesterday, there was something equally distracting, but incredible, outside the office window. Hundreds (if not a thousand) people from all over the district had gathered to wait together. They were workers in the recent election and helped to set up voting polls and count ballots. I talked to several of them and learned that they had not a moments sleep in the last two days. They were waiting here at the district offices for the stipend that was guaranteed for them by the federal government for their work. From eight in the morning until it was dark, they waited patiently – chatting, singing, just kickin’ it really. Today I talked to a man who said that some of the soldiers (a lot of which seem to be hanging out in Machinga lately – semi-automatic machine guns dangling from their backs) used force/fear to receive larger stipends than some civilians. A few folks are still waiting for their stipends out there this morning.

I don’t know if that fellow’s story was a true one or not, and I question the overall productivity of a town that drops all work to sing and dance together for a whole day. However, what has become very apparent to me is an intense sense of unity amongst the people. It is something that often lacks from Canadian culture. People rarely walk past each other without a greeting in Machinga. Life here is slow enough that people have time to realize that other people exist – something Canadians sometimes forget. Malawians walk slower; they look around. Sure, this culture plays a role in the degree of development of Malawi in comparison to Canada, but I feel like we could still learn something from Malawians, couldn’t we?

Machinga is BEAUTIFUL. Small, lush mountains (or really big hills – it’s your call) surround the area. The town is engulfed in huge overhanging trees, and red clay trails wind every which way. The houses are small but well kept. Most families have tin roofs, with the odd thatched roof mixed in. Right now there is an obscene number of wildflowers growing in the open spaces. Roosters, turkeys, and chickens roam free in town (and man alive there are a lot of them.) I’m working on finding the perfect morning/evening running trail... some of the trails behind town, into the hills, are baaaaaaaaalllllin! I’m almost scared to show you these pictures of the sights I see on my run.

O, I was going to mention that taking pictures has been super hard so far. To whip out an expensive looking camera in situations where you are interacting with impoverished people is an extremely awkward thing to do. Integration into this culture, and blending in as much as possible, are of utmost importance for a little while here. Though as I settle into Machinga (and just African life in general), it will be more and more comfortable taking pictures. I just need to make it a priority. Anyways...

OK, THIS IS THE MOST FRUSTERATING THING EVER. The internet cafe's connection won't upload my pictures... Tristan is there a better way to do this? Maybe I could post them on some site and then just include a link? Let me know. I have pictures.... I just can't show you them.

Take er easy,

Ian
 

Ian! Your trip sounds amazing so far. Hopefully you can get those pictures up, because I'd love to see what you see daily (even if it's just a picture). Stay safe, have fun and keep them posts comin! Happy belated as well, old fart.

H

Happy Birthday, dear Ian:

I'm late - but I love you and your blog info is actual excellent literature. So besides being a humanitarian, you are a writer, as

well.

Your folks must save everything you send - for your best-selling book, next year.

I don't think I remembered to do the math question on my first note to you -so maybe it wasn't sent.So this might be my first

note.

It's hot here today (about 22).

As your Grandma, I have a right to be very proud of you and to brag about you - really not bragging - just telling anyone who'd

listen what you're doing.

I love you. G.G.

Grandma!

I'll email you soon, so that we can arrange a time to talk on the phone!
Thanks for the comments! How are you?

Ian

Your list of adventures seems to be growing. Machinga sounds beautiful and indulging. Countless things you are wanting to experience and I hope you can gather some time...
I am trying to imagine the flowers and chickens and thatched roofs and your winding path through the trees, I hope it leads you to great places in this African country.

Cheers,

CHELS,

I'll fire you an email when I get back from Lilongwe! What is cracking though?

I was able to access your blog after all.

I repeat what I said in my email: Have an unconventional but "blue heron" kind of birthday!

 Hi Ian! It's great to read your blog posts. Keep them coming! Is there anyway to actually talk to you? I want to know what's going on and how you're feeling about everything. Coming back from Toronto has left me with a lot to do and a lot more to think about. I'm having trouble trying to figure out where to start but I hope that when you come back you'll find the chapter in full swing and completely ready to carry forward the energy and excitement that you bring back with you. 

What I'm really trying to figure out right now is how the U of A chapter fits in with the rest of the EWB network. I'm getting a good handle on what that looks like in Canada but I'm struggling with the overseas portion. It's a vague question but do you have any vague thoughts on it?

 

All the Best,

Tom

yeah Tom, we absolutely need to talk!

I'm going to Lilongwe fo a couple days again here, but I have finally found a good internet connection and when I get back we'll get in touch... best way is to call skype to my cell

ttysoon

Hey Ian:

The easiest thing to do is simply email your pictures to me and indicate where you want them in your posts. Alternatively you can upload them to pictures.ewb.ca - I have already created galleries for you and Sierra. I will email you tomorrow with the password.
Tristan